On the Trail Poachers That Illegally Capture China's Protected Wild Birds.
The activist's gaze sweeps over miles of tall grassland, looking for signs of life in the pre-dawn darkness.
He utters a muted voice as they attempt to locate a place of cover in the fields. In the distance, the sprawling city of Beijing remains asleep. As we wait, we hear only our own breath.
And then, as the sky begins to brighten before dawn, there is the crunch of footsteps. The poachers are here.
Trapped
In the skies above us, countless migratory birds, many so small that they can fit in the palm of your hand, are migrating south for winter.
They have taken advantage of the warmer months in Siberia, or Mongolia, eating insects and fruit. As the year winds down and icy winds bring the initial freeze of winter, they journey to warmer places to breed and eat.
There are more than 1,500 bird species, accounting for 13% of the world's total – more than 800 of those are migratory birds. Four of the nine major flyways they follow cross through China.
The area of meadow being monitored, on the edges of the Chinese capital, is an refuge for small birds – farther in and the urban landscape offer little opportunity to rest among forests of concrete.
It is equally attractive for the poachers and their "fine nets", so thin you can barely see them.
The trap we stumbled upon was extending over half the length of the field and propped up with wooden sticks. In the middle, a small finch was struggling frantically to untangle itself, but the more it moved, the more its claws became tangled.
This was a meadow pipit, a protected bird in China, and an important "indicator species" – which signifies if its numbers are thriving, so is its ecosystem.
Pursuing the Poachers
Silva, who is in his 30s, performs this duty for free using his personal funds. He has forgone many sleeping hours to release trapped birds, and he has spent the last decade persuading the police in Beijing to prioritize this issue.
"Back in 2015, authorities were indifferent," he says.
So he enlisted helpers who did care and formed a group called the Bird Protection Unit. He held community gatherings and brought in the leaders of the relevant authorities. These consistent and determined acts of persuasion have shown results. The police discovered that catching poachers also helped in uncovering other kinds of criminal activity.
"We found our objectives became somewhat shared," Silva says, noting that the response is not uniform.
This fascination with birds started in childhood. He was raised in the nineties in a much changed capital.
He remembers wandering in the grasslands on the city's edges where he discovered birds, frogs and snakes. "However, beginning in the 2000s, everything changed."
Industrialization brought millions of rural workers to cities. This fast-paced development meant grasslands were viewed as empty places to build, not conservation areas to preserve.
The transformation was alarming. The grasslands started disappearing, as did the habitats they supported.
"I decided back then to pursue environmental protection and I chose this direction," he says.
It has not been an easy life. One of Beijing's biggest bird dealers discovered he was being investigated by Silva and retaliated.
"He gathered several of his associates who confronted me and assaulted me," Silva recalls. He says he went to the police but those responsible were not brought to justice.
He has also seen the departure of his team of helpers over the years. This work requires covert operations and lost sleep. Silva says few people are willing to take on the challenging and occasionally risky job.
"My life is devoted to this," he says. "I treat it as a mission because if you want to solve this big problem, you must give it your all. You cannot be half-hearted."
He says fundraising covers some of the costs – over 100,000 yuan annually – but donations have dipped because of the slowing economy.
So he has found new ways to track the poachers.
He analyzes satellite imagery to find the routes worn away by the poachers. He charts these against the birds' migratory routes and looks for areas where they may rest. The satellite images can even show lines of net traps which can capture scores of small birds at night.
"Siberian rubythroats and bluethroats command a high price," Silva says. "In big cities like Beijing and Tianjin, those who want to own songbirds are now often affluent."
While there are environmental regulations in place, Silva argues the penalties to deter the activity do not outweigh the potential profits of trapping and trading songbirds.
Keeping a caged bird was – and for some people in China, still is – a mark of prestige. This originates from the Qing dynasty. Nobles and elites would build ornate bamboo cages for their birds.
It's a tradition that continues mainly among retired men in their 60s or 70s. Silva says some elderly citizens may not understand they are committing a wildlife crime, or grasp that numerous birds were killed in a trap so they could buy a pet.
"This generation often lacked enough to eat in their youth. Now with some disposable income, they have inherited the habit and custom of keeping birds in cages," he says. "China developed so fast, there was little opportunity to raise awareness about ecology. Once people's attitudes are set, they're extremely difficult to change."
Disrupted
On a long low wall in Beijing, a vendor has several tiny enclosures with chirping songbirds.
Another man is positioned near a local market holding a bird cage shrouded in a black veil. He tells passers-by discreetly that his songbird is rare, worth nearly 1900 yuan.
This offers a view of an traditional side of the city where small unofficial traders have created their own market.
The path by the river extends over several miles and on a sunny weekday morning, there were people looking at everything from vintage jewellery to false teeth.
We were told that wild songbirds could be bought in a small park. It was easy to find.
Loud music played from a speaker in a shaded area where a group of elderly ladies were performing a fan dance. Nearby several men, all over 50, had gathered with bird cages – some had multiple in their hands. Most were covered in black fabric.
But today there would be no transactions because the police had appeared. They were questioning the bird owners and recording details. Defiant, one man claimed he was {taking his caged bird for a walk|simply exercising his