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When assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the family totally astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary triumph.